Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a city of mole, mezkal, and art. It is the most vibrant city I have had the pleasure of seeing in all my years. The food is out of this world, Oaxaca is known as the region of the seven moles. I had Mole Negro and Pollo for lunch yesterday, the most famous of all seven. Mole is a sauce made from bitter chocolate, spices, nuts, and fruit. I had my first shot of Mezkal which like tequila is made from agave. It is much stronger than tequila and has a smoky flavour to it.
I have made many friends here in Oaxaca and have been going out with some locals. My Spanish is improving greatly.
The art scene here is phenomenal. I went to five separate art galleries today and two modern art museums. Many of the indigenous peoples from the surrounding villages sell their art and textiles here and the modern art reflects their influence.
I leave tomorrow for a three day hike in the cloud forest of Sierra Norte with four other people. We will hike between seven different villages where we will be fed and given a place to rest.
I know I still have month left here in Mexico but after seeing Oaxaca and hearing from travelers about Chiapas and Yucatan I wish I had more time.
Bisou.

Leaving Potrero

So yesterday I not only led my first 11a but I on-sited it!  Two Pump Chump, some slab, finger crack, and heucos.  It was beautiful.  Spent my last day running around the canyon trying to get on everything I could.  The winds have picked up and with them come change.  Tomorrow I will spend visit Monterrey's museum of modern art and then fly to Oaxaca on monday.  Bisou.

Tequila and Coco.

Hey folks,

Been tearing it up on the wall.... Did a wicked route called Pancho Villa Rides Again, 5 pitches (10c,10c,10a,10a,10a) I led the first and the third pitch.  Lots of roofs and sharp limestone crack.  Took a BIG whipper yesterday on a 10d...... I equate it to being unexpectedly thrown into cold water... it shakes you up a bit. 

I walked into town today to go to the tuesday market and for the first time was unexcited.  So I came back to the Posada and bought tickets to fly into Oaxaca on the 26th.  Today was my last rest day... only four days left to send.

Chiles and Eggs.

Its raining here in Potrero Chico. Forced rest day. Climbed Access Denied yesterday and led the crux pitch. It's a beautiful line up an arrett, 4 pitches, 10c, smooth rock and an ominous roof. Then did some cragging later in the day and got my ass handed to me on an 11b. I took a mean whipper on a 10c and my right foot got worked. Made friends with the best cooks in Posada and I have been eating very well for the last week or so. We are headed to the market soon (there is one every tuesday and friday). I can buy all the fresh fruit and veggies I want for under $10. And everytime you buy produce you get bundle of free cilantro. A cement factory in the heart of Hildago was once the backbone of the town's economy. It shut down a little under a year ago, and now climbers bring a lot of money to the community. Needless to say the locals are very good to us here.
I think I may head south within the next two weeks. Probably to Veracruz, Oaxaca, and then to the Yucatan.
Bisou.
Oh, yea... already ripped a hole in the butt of one of my pants...... wishing I had brought more clothes.

Poopy Ledges

First week in Potrero

Yo yo'd my first 10d on lead

Climbed Space Boyz, 11 pitches, 5.10c, 1,000 feet

Over multi-pitches for awhile... cragging is where its at

Hitching rides into town to buy margaritas

Bondfires on the top of cement buildings

Terrible fire dancer, lit his hair on fire

Was adopted by a stray cat

More Canadians in Mexico then I had expected

Locals are wonderful

Cattle Grates are the devil.

OOOK... Yesterday.... flew out of SFO got to Houston, caught a shuttle to my terminal, and arrived JUST in time to see my plane leave....
I was concerned because there was a driver that was scheduled to pick me up from Monterrey at a specific time and I wouldn't be there.... taking a taxi was something I didn't want to do.... So as I am running around manic about what to do next a woman comes up from behind me and puts her hands on my shoulders. I'm thinking 'WTF?' and she whispers in my ear "Miss, your skirt is tucked into your underwear." YES... the highlight of my day.

Eventually I arrived in Monterrey but my bag did not. I was in a bit of a panic until two women named Jen and Juliet offered me some pants and tequila. My bag arrived at 10pm. There is a god.

Spent the morning shopping for food..
No grocery stores....
Stray Dogs..... Lots of stray dogs.
Houses made out of cement.
Children pointing and laughing at all the dirt bag climbers.

I was unsure about this place until I climbed....
Limestone... pockets, cracks, and cactus......amazing.
pictures to come

One more thing.... be careful around cattle grates they are deceiving.
Bisou.

When one realizes that his life is worthless he either commits suicide or climbs.

2008 shorthand….
Turned 22, had my heart broken, first half-marathon, began a tumultuous and what appears to be a life-long love affair with lead climbing, separated from my best friend by thousands of miles, revisited my infatuation of Camus and Bukowski, grew a new mole, celebrated the first black president elect, and graduated from the system (FYI college was just as much a lesson in semantics as it was a lesson in social capital).

Needless to say in the last twelve months I was forced to re-evaluate and relinquish my tired construct of whatever it is I perceive...... So I figured: What better way to celebrate my new found freedom then going to Mexico solo and climbing for two months?

It is the eve of my departure and just a few things I wanted to say...

My best friend, if I believed in soul-mates you’d be it. Secretly I’m frightened that you are a figment of my unconscious manifested to maintain equilibrium in my waking life. Either way I’m glad you are around.

Kumquat and especially you Lemur; entered my life at a pivotal moment…. I no longer believe that men are synonymous with emotional terrorism.

Jimmy and the Vertex Crew…..damn fine group of climbers, thanks for all the laughs and beta. Hope to see you around the playground.

Oh… yea, one last thing. Excuse me? SSU? FAAAUUUUWWWWKKKK YOOOOUUU!

I’ll check in soon…. Let’s hope next time I write I will have just returned from the summit with a shot of Pulque and a gorditas infladas in hand. Bisou.