EZLN Education

After a few days in the jungle I returned to San Cristopal ready to give her another chance. I spent four days in the city and loved it. I was heavily educated on the Ejercito Zapatista de Liberacion Nacional (Zapatista National Liberation Army) who on January 1st, 1994 occupied San Cristópal and several other cities in Chiapas. What has ensued is more then a decade of unrest in Chiapas between the EZLN and the Mexican Government. The EZLN have been fighting to bring awareness and change to the terrible living conditions of Mexician indigenous populations. (for more info visit http://www.ezln.org.mx/)
I also visited the beautiful headache of a village San Juan Chamula. The people are Tzotzil and wear traditional clothing. The village is known for its Sunday markets and its church Templo de San Juan. When I entered there were three medicine workers preforming rituals at the time... one of which was blessing someone with a dead chicken (it is also common to see them preforming rituals with bones and eggs) There are dozens of saints in the church with mirrors hanging around their necks and San Juan Bautista is in the center of the alter (he is whorshipped over Christ). Pine needles litter the floor and there are hundreds of candles lit all over the church.... I personally killed some prayers when I absent mindedly stepped on a row of them.(luckily the surrounding pine needles and my pants did not go up in flames)
Now I am on my way back to Oaxaca... I spent the night in Tuxtla Gutierrez and today went to the Canon del Sumidero and saw my first alligator in the wild. The Canyon was beautiful and the boat ride was amazing. Legends have it that when Diego de Mazariegos invaded the area hundreds of the indigenous Chiapa jumped to their death into the canyon. Off to Oaxaca.
Bisou

San Cristopal

After a week of lazily blissing out on the Pacific Coast I took an overnight bus ride from hell to San Cristopal, Chiapas. This higher elevation city is beautiful and cold and colorful...... Had a wonderful dinner with some foreigners last night but I think the highlight is when a toddler bagged my beer for me in the supermarket... He wasnt old enough to talk yet but old enough to make an excellent bagging boy.
I am leaving today to go see Palenque... and then off to the Caribbean Coast.
Only two weeks left!

Puerto Angel

Soooo the hike did not pan out.... Unfortunately, I was battling a deamonic force living in my stomach for four days, punishing me for some unspeakable act of consumption. Fortunately I am eating solid foods again after many days of electrolites and antibiotics. Myself and two other women I met in Oaxaca have made our way to the Pacific Coast. We are staying in a sleepy little fishing village named Puerto Angel....It is beautiful here and the locals are generous and welcoming. The only thing to fear here are the Italians who recently moved in and think they own the place.
There are amazing birds here... frigate birds are everywhere and sleeping through the night is difficult because the song birds never rest.
Local fisherman often offer us raw mussel with lime and salsa as we walk by..... the beaches are beautiful
Going to check out the sea turtle station tomorrow.

Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a city of mole, mezkal, and art. It is the most vibrant city I have had the pleasure of seeing in all my years. The food is out of this world, Oaxaca is known as the region of the seven moles. I had Mole Negro and Pollo for lunch yesterday, the most famous of all seven. Mole is a sauce made from bitter chocolate, spices, nuts, and fruit. I had my first shot of Mezkal which like tequila is made from agave. It is much stronger than tequila and has a smoky flavour to it.
I have made many friends here in Oaxaca and have been going out with some locals. My Spanish is improving greatly.
The art scene here is phenomenal. I went to five separate art galleries today and two modern art museums. Many of the indigenous peoples from the surrounding villages sell their art and textiles here and the modern art reflects their influence.
I leave tomorrow for a three day hike in the cloud forest of Sierra Norte with four other people. We will hike between seven different villages where we will be fed and given a place to rest.
I know I still have month left here in Mexico but after seeing Oaxaca and hearing from travelers about Chiapas and Yucatan I wish I had more time.
Bisou.

Leaving Potrero

So yesterday I not only led my first 11a but I on-sited it!  Two Pump Chump, some slab, finger crack, and heucos.  It was beautiful.  Spent my last day running around the canyon trying to get on everything I could.  The winds have picked up and with them come change.  Tomorrow I will spend visit Monterrey's museum of modern art and then fly to Oaxaca on monday.  Bisou.

Tequila and Coco.

Hey folks,

Been tearing it up on the wall.... Did a wicked route called Pancho Villa Rides Again, 5 pitches (10c,10c,10a,10a,10a) I led the first and the third pitch.  Lots of roofs and sharp limestone crack.  Took a BIG whipper yesterday on a 10d...... I equate it to being unexpectedly thrown into cold water... it shakes you up a bit. 

I walked into town today to go to the tuesday market and for the first time was unexcited.  So I came back to the Posada and bought tickets to fly into Oaxaca on the 26th.  Today was my last rest day... only four days left to send.

Chiles and Eggs.

Its raining here in Potrero Chico. Forced rest day. Climbed Access Denied yesterday and led the crux pitch. It's a beautiful line up an arrett, 4 pitches, 10c, smooth rock and an ominous roof. Then did some cragging later in the day and got my ass handed to me on an 11b. I took a mean whipper on a 10c and my right foot got worked. Made friends with the best cooks in Posada and I have been eating very well for the last week or so. We are headed to the market soon (there is one every tuesday and friday). I can buy all the fresh fruit and veggies I want for under $10. And everytime you buy produce you get bundle of free cilantro. A cement factory in the heart of Hildago was once the backbone of the town's economy. It shut down a little under a year ago, and now climbers bring a lot of money to the community. Needless to say the locals are very good to us here.
I think I may head south within the next two weeks. Probably to Veracruz, Oaxaca, and then to the Yucatan.
Bisou.
Oh, yea... already ripped a hole in the butt of one of my pants...... wishing I had brought more clothes.